Just so you don't think I'm all negative I'd like to tell you about a couple of great places to eat here. Two of these places I found through the Italians here, and the other a found quite by accident myself. The first is a rosticceria in via Ricasoli, I think. It's kind of a gastronomic 'fast food' place, but with yummy pasta and salads. Great for something quick in town.
The second is again in via Ricasoli, and it's called Oliandolo (via Ricasoli, 38r-40r, tel. 055/211296). It is wonderful. A real Tuscan place packed full of Italians. Delicious. Today I had the schiacciata del giorno. The third, the one I take pride in because I found it myself, is called La pentola dell'oro, on via di Mezzo, angolo via dei Pepi (tel. 055/241808). It's the best restaurant food I've had in Italy. There are a group of people who look like your aunts and uncles in the kitchen producing wonderful pasta dishes and all sorts of other goodies. I had the fusilli all cacciatora con ricotta salata, and skipped the second to have pecorino stagionato con pera e oliva al forno. Yummy. Yummy. In my tummy.
Tonight Giuseppe has invited me to dinner in his place with others from the course. I'm looking forward to it. He is a lovely Palermitano who is dizzingly clever but very modest about it. He's got a very calming influence on me when I meet him. It must be the Sicilian sun that shines through.